Etching and Aquatint on Handmade Paper

Scottie Coleman and
Sydney Paul

Student Projects, Paper Making, Print Making

 

Introduction

Our project incorporated several technical processes we have experimented with as a class in our laboratory sessions this semester. In order to complete our final products, we made paper, prepared two zinc plates (one of which we etched, the other using the aquatint method), and then printed our designs onto our paper. We made a total of eighteen prints, nine of which depict Walsh Ellett, the remaining nine each bear the same bold geometric design that juxtaposes the fine lines of the first plate.

Background

The etching and aquatint processes of printmaking were developed at different times in history and aim to achieve different visual effects. Etching was practiced as early as the fifteenth century but was not used regularly as an art form until the seventeenth century by the Dutch. Rembrandt was one of the more famous artists who frequently and consistently used etching as one of his media. Aquatint was developed much later in the eighteenth century and aims to produce different gradations in tone that go beyond the technique of etching. The aquatint stopper that we used was a can of gray spraypaint that was sprayed evenly over the entire surface of the zinc plate. This created a texture after it was placed in the acid bath for a certain amount of time that cross-hatching in an etching could not achieve.

Rembrandt van Rijn's "Self-Portrait with Wide-Open Eyes" from 1630 (Below, Left)

Francisco Goya's "Estan Calientes" from the late 18th Century (Below, Right)

Procedure

Papermaking materials:

Two square pieces of wool fabric
Two square pieces of pelon
One deckle box
Drainage pipe
Drainage bucket
Two large beakers
One spray bottle of water
One glass stirrer
One two-liter plastic bottle filled with water (to be used as a rolling pin)
Cotton pulp from two different white 100% cotton t-shirts
Diluted liquid sizing
Two large wooden drying boards
500 ml beaker (used for measuring pulp)
Labels

Papermaking procedure :

We began by collecting our necessary materials and setting up our workspace. We then dipped the beaker into the tub of beaten pulp and evenly removed 300 ml of pulp. We filled the deckle box so that the water occupied at least 75% of the box. We then poured the pulp into the deckle box and immediately began stirring. While stirring, we mixed 25 drops of diluted sizing [4 drops diluted to 10 mL] into the water and pulp mixture. After stirring for about thirty seconds, we opened the drain and allowed the water to drain completely from the box. Once removed, we took the mold from the stand and brought it down to the table and held it perpendicular to the surface on top of a square of wool that was covered by a smaller square piece of pelon that had been sprayed with water. We then lowered the mold horizontally so that the pulp was gently pressed onto the pelon. We applied pressure and removed the mold entirely, leaving the pulp on the pelon and wool material. Next, we took a second piece of pelon and laid it over the pulp. Then we laid another piece of wool on top and took the two-liter bottle that had been filled with water and used it as a rolling pin. We lightly rolled the bottle (without applying any extra pressure) three times over the padding and the pulp sample. After doing so, we removed the top layers of wool and pelon and took the pelon that the pulp had been pressed into and took it to our drying board where we lightly transferred our newly formed wet piece of paper onto the wood board. We labeled the piece of paper as 300 ml ¼. We then repeated this entire process three more times, thus creating four sheets of 300 ml paper. We performed this entire process four more times using 400 ml of pulp and keeping the 25 drops of diluted sizing constant. Finally, we created our final four sheets of paper using 500ml. Again, we followed the same process and kept the amount of sizing constant. We produced 16 pieces of paper that we left to dry on the large wooden board. We covered all of the paper with blotting paper and then laid another large wooden board on top of the first board, the newly made paper and the blotting paper. After an hour, we removed the paper from the board piece by piece and placed it between two pieces of fresh, dry blotting paper. We then ironed the paper on either side in order to activate the sizing. We did this with each of the paper samples. Afterwards, we returned the paper to the drying board, recovered the pieces with fresh, dry blotting paper and again, placed the other drying board of equal size on top of the bottom board, the newly made paper and the blotting paper and left it overnight to dry. The usage of this second board ensured a flattened dry paper and made a product that looked more professional and formal.

(Description of photos from left to right) Deckle box set up. Materials for transfering pulp on mold to pelon. Ironing to activate sizing. Drying board.

In the following laboratory session, we prepared our two zinc plates.

Materials for plate preparation :

Two zinc plates
Putz Pomade
Triangluar rough metal file
Newspaper sheets
100% Isopropyl Alcohol
Mineral spirits
Hard ground
Paint brush
Paper toweling

Plate preparation procedure :

We first peeled off the plastic coat from the backs of the two plates. Next, we beveled the edges of the plate with a triangular file. Then we cleaned off the ZnO coating with Putz-Pomade using sheets of newspaper. While holding the plate at the edges, we then cleaned the plate with Isoproyl alcohol in the hood. Next, we carefully laid the clean plates in the hood on pieces of paper toweling. With a paint brush, we applied an even coat of ground onto each zinc plate and then left the plates in the hood to dry for about ten minutes. Then, we carefully removed the plates from the hood and using a styllus, drew our two designs into the plates by carefully removing the ground. The first design is a delicate sketch of Walsh Ellett. The second design is a series of overlapping circles.

Both zinc plates prepared to be etched (Below)

Next, we etched the two zinc plates :

Materials for etching:

2 Trays for holding the acid
3 Molar nitric acid
2 Paint brushes
Tweezers
Isopropyl Alcohol
Mineral Spirits
Paper toweling

Procedure for etching the two zinc plates :

In order to etch the zinc plates, we first immersed the plates into baths of 3 molar nitric acid. While immersed, we used the paint brushes to remove the bubbles that constantly coated the surface of the plates. When the zinc plate spent a total of six minutes in the bath, we removed the plates carefully with the tweezers and rinsed both plates with tap water in order to stop the chemical reaction. We then patted the plates dry with paper toweling and then in the hood, we removed the ground from the etched plates using mineral spirits and paper toweling. Once completely clean, we made a final rinse of the plates with Isopropyl Alcohol and wiped them dry. We left the plate with the Walsh Ellet design alone and did not do anything further to it. The plate with the circles on it was further developed using the aquatinting method.

Materials for aquatinting :

Etched zinc plate
100% Isopropyl Alcohol
3 Molar nitric acid
1 Tray for holding the acid
Gray spraypaint
Hard ground
Paint brush

Procedure for aquatinting the previously etched plate :

The design on the second plate was chosen so that it would provide different gradations of tone. The first round of etching created the outlines of the circles. Now the aquatinting actually begins. Standing a foot away from the plate (that we balanced horizontally against a newspaper and trashcan as shown below), we sprayed the entire plate evenly with one coat of gray spraypaint. Then we placed the plate in the same acid bath for one minute. In order to create varying gradations of tone, we used a paintbrush and hard-ground and stopped off the entire background of the plate where there were no circles drawn. After the hard-ground was dry, we sprayed the plate evenly again with spraypaint and placed the plate in the acid bath for one minute. Then we cleaned off the entire plate using mineral spirits and 100% Isopropyl Alcohol. Next, we stopped off the areas in the center of the circles (where the two circles were not overlapping) and sprayed the entire plate again. We then placed the plate in the bath for another minute. This produced darker areas where the circles overlapped and thus contrasted from the lighter background.

Prepared plate, background stopped out (Below, Left). Scottie spraypainting etched plate before placing in acid bath (Below, Right).

Finally, we were prepared to make our prints :

Materials for printing :

Several small squares of cardboard
1 Square foot of taffeta
Two prepared zinc plates (one etched, one aquatinted)
Ink (black, blue, brown)
Paper toweling
1 Sheet of paper
2 Pieces of felt
Printing press template
Printing press
Mineral Spirits
Water

Procedure for printing :

First, we took our sheets of paper and tore them in half in order to create a piece of paper that would be more proportional to the size of our zinc plates. We then took the paper and sprayed it down on either side with a water bottle (immersing it fully in water would cause the paper to fall apart since it is hand made and very porous). We then blotted the paper and placed it between two sheets of blotting paper in order to keep it damp. Next, we prepared the printing press template for our piece of zinc by measuring the dimensions of the paper and then by placing the zinc plate on top of the paper and drawing an outline so that the borders and alignment will be the same on all of the produced prints. Next, we inked the plate using a small piece of cardboard to drag the ink across the plate and into the etched grooves. We wiped the excess ink from the plate with another piece of cardboard. We blotted the zinc plates with newspaper and then took the square foot piece of taffeta and wiped the surface of the plate clean while making sure to not dig too deep and accidentally remove ink from the etched grooves. With clean hands, we placed the template on the bed of the press on top of the bottom piece of felt and then laid one of our etched plates over in its appropriate spot, as indicated by our template. Next, we placed our damp paper over the inked plate and then covered it with a normal piece of paper. We covered this stack with another piece of felt and then ran the plate and paper through the press. Afterwards, we lifted the felts carefully, one at a time and then lifted the paper from the metal plate. We set the print on a drying board to dry. We then thoroughly cleaned the plate, re-inked and started the process over again.

We used black, blue and brown ink for both the etched and aquatinted plates. For the etched plate, we printed three of each color, each of the three prints was done on one piece of 300 mL paper, one piece of 400 mL paper and one piece of 500 mL paper. So in total, we produced nine prints from the etched plate that bears the design of Walsh Ellett. We used the same method for producing nine prints from the aquatinted zinc plate.

 

Observations and Data

Observations of the zinc plates:

  Cleaning the Plate, Applying the Ground and Making the Design Using a Stylus Etching the plate Using 3M HNO3 Additional Application of Ground Re-etching the Plate
Zinc Plate #1

-The Putz-Pomade once applied to the zinc plate turned a black color. It took several applications before the plate became clean.

-The entire surface was painted using a larger paint brush with the hard ground. It only took two brush strokes to cover the whole plate. The ground was fairly evenly applied, with a few lighter areas towards the end of the stroke.

-The stylus was used to scratch away the hard ground. The fine tip of the stylus made it easy to create the fine lines of the brick and edges of Walsh Ellett that we had created in our design. The technique of cross-hatching was used to create the darker areas of the windows and archways. The edges of the building were traced over a couple of times while the bricks were only drawn in once. Some of the lines are not as even as others because of the way that the stylus interacted with the ground surface. The stylus ran over very smoothly, so it was hard to create the same type of lines as we did using a pen and paper.

-Placed in the acid bath for 6 minutes and then removed and cleaned. -None. -None.
Zinc Plate #2

-The Putz-Pomade once applied to the zinc plate turned a black color. It took several applications before the plate became clean.

-The entire surface was painted using a larger paint brush with the hard ground. It only took two brush strokes to cover the whole plate. The ground was fairly evenly applied, with a few lighter areas towards the end of the stroke.

-The stylus was first used to create the outlines of the circular shapes involved in our second design, intended for aquatint. These lines were easier to create, and we went over them several times in order to achieve the thick lines we had in our design. The stylus ran very smoothly over the ground surface, but it was easier to control in this design because we did not have very fine lines.

-Initially placed in the acid bath for 6 minutes

-The plate was cleaned off and then sprayed evenly over the entire surface with gray spraypaint. It was hard to get the spraypaint evenly over the entire surface so we had to stand far back and do a couple of applications before it was successful.

-The background areas where there was no circles were stopped out with the hard ground. It was hard to apply the hard ground evenly with the smaller paint brushes because they were not very good ones and we had to wipe it off with a paper towel and mineral spirits in order to make it successful. After the hard ground dried the entire surface of the plate was sprayed again.

-The rest of the plate except where the circles overlapped each other was then stopped out with the hard ground and a smaller paint brush. The entire plate was then sprayed evenly over the entire surface with the gray spraypaint.

 

-After the first application of spraypaint, the plate was placed in the acid bath for one minute and then removed and cleaned.The acid bath created many small air bubbles over the exposed surfaces of the zinc plate which were hard to keep brushing off with the brush.

-After the second application of spraypaint and hard ground the plate was placed in the acid bath for another minute. The acid bath created many small air bubbles over the exposed surfaces of the zinc plate which were hard to keep brushing off with the brush. Because more was stopped off, there were not as many bubbles.

-After the third application of hard ground and spraypaint, the plate was placed in the acid bath for one minute. The acid bath created many small air bubbles over the exposed surfaces of the zinc plate which were hard to keep brushing off with the brush. There were not as many bubbles this time because the overlapping areas were so few.

Observations of the inking and printing the zinc plates:

  Inking Printing

Zinc Plate #1

-The zinc plate with the depiction of Walsh Ellett had much finer lines that were very shallow. The ink was mixed with mineral oil and applied to the surface using the small cardboard squares. We had to use a very small amount of ink because it covered the plate much easier than expected. The ink was harder to spread across the top, and before it was wiped down we had to run over it with a clean piece of cardboard to get the excess off of the surface. The newspaper squares were then placed on the entire surface of the plate and patted down and then removed. This process removed a lot of the surface ink that would have been hard to wipe off. Then we took the same newspaper squares and applied pressure in a circular motion to the surface on an even plane with our hands. This was a very slow process and just the right amount of pressure had to be applied or else the ink would come out of the grooves. -The zinc plate with the ink was then placed on a template on the printing press(a piece of paper that we traced) and the moist paper that we prepared was placed on top of the plate. The two pieces of felt were then individually lowered on top of the paper and plate. The handle was fairly hard to turn and became harder once it rolled over the zinc plate.

Zinc Plate #2

-The zinc plate with the circular designs had very deep lines and a rough surface due to the aquatint technique we used to etch the plate. The ink we applied to the plate was mixed with mineral oil and applied to the surface using the small cardboard squares. We had to use a greater amount of ink for this plate because the lines were much thicker and deeper and the surface was rough and picked up ink as well. The newspaper squares were placed on top after the ink was applied, which removed a lot of the surface ink. Then we took the same newspaper squares and applied pressure in a circular motion to the surface on an even plane with our hands. This was a slow process but not as slow and difficult as the first plate because there were not as fine of lines and much of the ink was retained on the surface so it did not have to be wiped clean. -The zinc plate with the ink was then placed on a template on the printing press(a piece of paper that we traced) and the moist paper that we prepared was placed on top of the plate. The two pieces of felt were then individually lowered on top of the paper and plate. The handle was fairly hard to turn and became harder once it rolled over the zinc plate.

Measurements in grams of the weight of every print that we made:

  Amount of Pulp Used to Create the Paper Zinc Plate #1 or Zinc Plate #2 Mass in grams
Series #1 Print 1/3
300mL
Zinc Plate #1
2.5595g
Series #1 Print 2/3
400mL
Zinc Plate #1
3.3135g
Series #1 Print 3/3
500mL
Zinc Plate #1
3.7265g
Series #2 Print 1/3
300mL
Zinc Plate #1
2.5519g
Series #2 Print 2/3
400mL
Zinc Plate #1
3.1593g
Series #2 Print 3/3
500mL
Zinc Plate #1
4.0983g
Series #3 Print 1/3
300mL
Zinc Plate #1

2.7306g

Series #3 Print 2/3
400mL
Zinc Plate #1
2.9795g
Series #3 Print 3/3
500mL
Zinc Plate #1
3.9475g
Series #4 Print 1/3
300mL
Zinc Plate #2
2.6445g
Series #4 Print 2/3
400mL
Zinc Plate #2
3.2568g
Series #4 Print 3/3
500mL
Zinc Plate #2
3.9213g
Series #5 Print 1/3
300mL
Zinc Plate #2
2.5018g
Series #5 Print 2/3
400mL
Zinc Plate #2
3.2545g
Series #5 Print 3/3
500mL
Zinc Plate #2
3.9650g
Series #6 Print 1/3
300mL
Zinc Plate #2
2.8005g
Series #6 Print 2/3
400mL
Zinc Plate #2
3.6005g
Series #6 Print 3/3
500mL
Zinc Plate #2
3.9656g

Observations/Conclusions of Six Select Prints:

(Prints from left to right: Walsh Ellet #1, Walsh Ellet #2, Walsh Ellet #3)

(Prints from left to right: Overlapping Circles #1, Overlapping Circles #2, Overlapping Circles #3)

Print #
Printing Style
Observations/Conclusions of Final Prints

Walsh Ellet

#1

Etching
Printed on 300mL paper, lines are not definite. Paper smooth, not much texture. Paper did not reach deep and remove ink from etch. Especially noticable in the archways and the trees, they are not nearly as bold as they should be. Overall feel of paper and print is flimsy and thin.

Walsh Ellet

#2

Etching
Printed on 400mL paper, lines more defined than in the first print. Paper is noticeably thicker, though still smooth on its surface. The lines are not as messy, the archways are more filled in, as are the trees. The overall coloring is better, one can really see the fine lines in the design and the crosshatching done by the artist.

Walsh Ellet

#3

Etching
Printed on 500mL paper, lines are almost perfectly defined. Each fine line seems to be filled in appropriately. Most noticeable difference in the archway and the center point of the roof. Fine, clean lines give print a more professional look. The artist's technique is visible. It is evident that the thicker paper was able to really get into the etching and absorb the ink.

Overlapping Circles

#1

Aquatint
Printed on 300mL paper, it is uneven and very flimsy. The lines are bold, though there is little difference in tone. The bottom right corner did not transfer much ink, there is almost a white spot. The paper did not seem to absorb or engulf the ink well at all.
Overlapping Circles

#2

Aquatint
Printed on 400mL paper, the tone is noticeably better and more defined. The overlapping circles are considerably darker, the background tone is also darker. There are no blank spots, the paper seemed to be more porous and capable of absorbing the ink and ultimately made a better print that then first.
Overlapping Circles

#3

Aquatint
Printed on 500mL paper, the aquatint technique is very noticeable here. What was "re-etched" and what had been blocked out (as deliniated in the above procedure) is evident in the print. The tone is much more defined, the background contrasts nicely with the circles in the forefront. This thicker, more porous (and thus more texturized) paper proved once again to absorb the most ink and produce the best print.

Conclusions

For our final project we set out to test how two different forms of printmaking (etching and aquatint) would interact with our own hand-made paper made from 100 percent white cotton pulp. The variable was the different amounts of pulp that were used in the papermaking. The steps involved in printmaking were keep constant (to the best of our ability). However, throughout the procedural part of our experiment we realized that it was very difficult to keep some of these processes entirely constant. For example, during the inking and printing processes it was impossible to apply the ink in the exact same way every time. It was also impossible to wipe off the ink in the exact same way to create the same surface for printing every time. This directly affected our results because we were looking for the different ways that the ink was absorbed by the different sheets of paper that we created. The problem then resides in the possibility that within the same series of prints, the ink could have been applied very heavily on the first print and very lightly on the other two. Thus, we could have deduced that the sheet of paper made with the least amount of pulp absorbed the ink the best. However, since we repeated our experiment many different times we found this problem was eliminated because of the consistency of our results. Also, within each series only one person applied the ink, which eliminated any differences in ink application within the partnership. We also kept the mixtures of inks and mineral oil constant for each series, so that the results could not be affected by different ratios of ink to oil. Another factor that we had not considered until after we had already gathered the results was the diluted sizing that we used. The sizing was kept constant throughout the entire papermaking procedure (25 drops in each pulp and water mixture in the deckle box). We did not consider the fact that the ratio of sizing to pulp could have affected the way that the different sheets of paper absorbed the ink. In other words, the 25 drops of sizing that were mixed in with the 300mL of pulp had a greater ratio of sizing to pulp than the paper made with 500mL of pulp. If we had kept the ratio constant throughout the papermaking process, the results would have been more indicative of what we were trying to test. Overall, the results that we gathered allowed us to come to the conculsion that the sheets of paper that were made with the greatest amount of pulp (500mL) resulted in the most successful prints. We attributed this to the fact that the more pulp used resulted in a more porous surface that would absorb a greater amount of ink and therefore create the sharpest lines and a successful print.

Original Plan vs. Final Experiment

As mentioned in our conclusion, we carried out our original plan and only altered small details such as the size of our final product (we tore the paper in half) and the amount of pulp used for the paper (each measurement was adjusted by just fifty milliliters). Even though we stayed true to our original plan, we realized throughout the experiment that there were many factors we could have adjusted in order to enhance the project. We could have kept the ratio constant of sizing to pulp, rather than keeping the amount of sizing constant. Also, we could have changed the project so that we could have more of a variable, rather than just the changing of the amount of pulp used to create the paper. Even though we realized that much of our project was difficult to truly control, we learned a valuable lesson in planning experiments and ultimately walked away with a good knowledge of papermaking and printmaking, which are both hobbies we are sure we will enjoy in the future.

Links

http://www.artlex.com/ArtLex/a/aquatint.html

http://www.sewanee.edu/chem/Chem&Art/default.html

Other References

Banister, Manly. Etching and Other Inaglio Techniques. (New York: Sterling Publishing) 1969.

Hind, Arthur M. A History of Engraving and Etching, (New York: Dover Publications, Inc.) 1963.

Lumsden, E. S. The Art of Etching, (New York: Dover Publications, Inc.) 1962.

Acknowledgements

We would like to thanks Dr. Bordley for his help in class and during our laboratory sessions.

We would like to thank Professor Fitz for sharing her extensive knowledge of printmaking with us, her passion for the art inspired us.